Sarajevo
- aishacassiewilliam
- Apr 24, 2023
- 14 min read
Updated: Sep 18, 2024
Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a city I can honestly say was the biggest surprise of our trip. It is truly a hidden gem and I'd recommend it to anyone wanting to get off the beaten path a bit!
This wonderful city is a true melting pot of culture, where east meets west in the most beautiful fashion! One minute you feel like you're wandering through the stylish, modern streets of Vienna and the next you've been transported back in time into an old fashioned Turkish bazaar. Its a truly unique place, filled with so much character, beauty and history!
I honestly think that Sarajevo has something for everyone. Whether you're a history nerd, someone who loves nature and hiking, a foodie, a party-goer, a backpacker or you're looking for a nice relaxing city break - this city has it all!
The best part for me is the people! We have never experienced such kindness and generosity as we did in Sarajevo - whether people are just giving you a history lesson, sharing their experiences of the war; Or maybe even giving you a bag full of cherries freshly picked from the tree in their garden to fuel you on your hike to the bobsled track - the people here are unbelievably kind and made our visit so special.
Prepare to fall head over heels for this one of a kind place!
Top tip! Why not tag on a visit to Mostar too! This fairytale town is a 2 and a half hour train ride from Sarajevo - and the ride there itself is worth the trip! The train journey has been voted one of the most beautiful in Europe and only costs 12BAM (£5.50) each way. If you set off early enough you could even do this as a day trip! The trains run in each direction twice a day. From Sarajevo to Mostar the first leaves at 7:15am, the second at 16:40pm. From Mostar to Sarajevo, the first train leaves at 6:39am, and the second at 16:38pm. Tickets can be bought at the train stations. Keep your eyeballs peeled for a Mostar city guide soon!
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Best Time To Visit
The climate in Bosnia is really unique! To the north (Where you'll find Sarajevo), temperatures are generally lower and the area is generally greener. To the south (the Herzegovina region) temperatures are significantly higher and the landscape is more arid and dry!
Therefore, the best time to visit Bosnia is May, June and September. You'll miss the hottest summer months, but the weather will still be dry and warm enough in both regions to enjoy some walks and a Bosnian coffee sat outside!
Accommodation
Most hostels in the Balkans generally have super homely, cosy vibes and those found in Sarajevo are no exception! Balkan Han is personal favourite - but I have gone ahead and highlighted several other options below! Frankly, I couldnt believe there are so many highly rated hostels in such a small area!
Sarajevo is a pretty small place, location wise, most hostels are located nearby the old town and centre of the city! As long as the accommodation you chose is located within walking distance of the Baščaršija (the old town) then you're great!
See below for my top Hostel recommendations.
Note, all prices are midweek, for a single person in May 2023. All prices and ratings are from Hostelworld.com.
Name | Price per night | Rating (/10) | Pros | Cons |
Hostel Balkan Han | £11 (8 bed mixed dorm) | 9.1 | Super cosy hostel with a well equipped kitchen and lovely garden area. Staff are lovely and gave us a super warm welcome and let us check in early! You may even be lucky and get a double bed! | If you've booked as a pair you may be asked to share a (double) bed. We didn't get any discount for this but were happy to share because we like each other x |
Hostel Vagabond | £12 (8 bed mixed dorm) | 9.8 | Probably the best located hostel. staff are supposed to be great and beds are supposed to be comfy! Good, clean, spacious bathrooms and a kitchen! | some reports that the hostel isn't the most social and does organise any social activities. |
Hostel Franz Ferdinand | £13 (6 bed mixed dorm) | 9.7 | Really clean hostel with well equipped kitchen. Great location and free tea and coffee. | The decor looks...interesting from the photos - not necessarily a dealbreaker though! |
Infinity boutique hostel | £13 (6 bed mixed dorm) | 9.9 | Highest rated hostel. Super clean and cosy with lovely staff. 24 hour reception and well equipped kitchen. No bunks just single beds. | There actually aren't any bad reviews I can find? however there aren't huge amounts of reviews online! |
Hostel Kucha | £11 (5 bed mixed dorm) | 9.7 | Hostel looks super bright and modern. Has a large terrace with great views and a well equipped kitchen. | Located a little up a hill, so you might break a sweat to get here - especially if you're carrying a backpack! |
Things to Do
Surprisingly there are so many things to do in this tiny city! It's packed with history and you'll probably come away from Sarajevo, not only in love with the city itself, but with a brain bursting with new knowledge and a belly full of börek. It's simply one of my favourite cities to wander, window shop and people watch! Not only that but just steps from the city centre there are some beautiful walks and hikes so you can get out into nature in a matter of minutes!
Sarajevo, as is the case for most Balkan cities, is super affordable! Expect most activities to either be free or have super small entry prices - I've made a note of the best things we did below!
Free walking tours - Make this the first activity on your agenda! There is SO much to learn about this incredible city, and taking a free walking tour is one of the best ways to do this. You can easily get your bearings and some great recommendations too! We actually did two walking tours and I would highly recommend both - The first was a general city tour with Meet Bosnia tours, you can book online here (they do two tours everyday, one a 10:30am and one at 3pm) Make this the first thing you do when you come to Sarajevo! You'll learn so much about this beautiful city and the guide is incredibly knowledgable and will give you some top recommendations! The second tour was a recent war history tour (a super important thing to learn about when visiting Bosnia/the rest of the Balkans, and especially if you're planning on visiting the 11/07/95 Gallery) - the tour is run by Neno and Friends, you can book online here. Both Tours are free, but remember to bring some cash to tip your (incredible!) guides at the end!
11/07/95 museum - An incredibly sad, but important memorial gallery to the victims of the Srebrenica genocide on the 11th July 1995. The gallery aims to preserve the memory of the genocide and the victims through photographs, video footage and information on why and how this incident happened. Entry is 12KM (around £5.50) and includes an audio guide - You can purchase tickets on the door. If you've never heard about the Srebrenica massacre before your visit - don't worry. The audioguide and museum does a great job in explaining it all. However, if you did want to learn more about it prior to your visit, you can read more about it here.
War Childhood Museum - We didn't make it to this museum, but heard lots of great reviews and will definitely visit when we go back! This museum is the world's largest archive dedicated to the experience of growing up in a war zone. The museum aims to preserve the memory and shed light on the experience of children during the Bosnian war. Entry is 10KM (£4.50) and the museum is open everyday, 11am-7pm. You can find more information on this Museum here.
The Abandoned Bobsled Track - Located on Trebević mountain, the bobsled track was used in the 1985 winter olympics. But ever since, has been left abandoned to be re-claimed by nature and graffiti artists. The area holds much historical importance too, it was used as a strategic artillery position throughout the Siege of Sarajevo, during the Bosnian war. You can either get to the track by walking for around an hour and half from the old town centre (however be aware some parts are pretty steep!) You'll get some great views over the city and there are some great picnic spots on the way up too! Or, you can get the cable car to the top of the mountain and explore from there. The cable car runs everyday from 9am - 6pm, but may be affected by bad weather/general maintenance - you can check for service updates here. Tickets for the cable car are 20KM (£9.00) return, or 15KM (£6.80) one way. Entry to the bobsled track is free - but be careful as some parts of the track may be slippery if its raining!
Baščaršija - Sarajevo's old bazaar and historical centre of the city. You can find the last remaining copper handicraft street in Sarajevo here. You can watch people still using traditional methods to create copper goods, and even pick up some cool souvenirs for great prices!
Yellow Bastion - A nice viewpoint over the old city. The walk to get there is a little steep - but the area is great to stop for a picnic and there's even a little bar at the top so you can reward your efforts with nice a cold beer! Entry to the bastion and viewpoint are free.
Latin Bridge - Less of a 'thing to do' more of a point of interest! At the end of the bridge is where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, ultimately leading to the start of the World War I. There's a plaque in the assassination spot to mark the location and tell you more about what happened that day.
Tunnel of Hope - We didn't get to do this - but again it's something I would like to do on our next visit. The Sarajevo tunnel was one of the only routes in and out of the city during the siege of Sarajevo as it connected the only two 'free zones' in the city. Over 4 months the 785.5 meter long tunnel was built by members of the army of Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina using their bare hands and pickaxes. As the Republic of Srpska forces took over city lines, the tunnel became the only route by which supplies could be delivered to those stranded within the city. Today, the tunnel is a museum - entry is 10BAM for an adult ticket, and is open from 9am-5pm April - October, and 9am-4pm November to March.
Places to Eat/Drink
Cuisine in Bosnia is generally a bit of a mix between typical balkan cuisine (a LOT of meat and cheese) and Turkish cuisine! Most restaurants serving traditional Bosnian dishes tend to be super affordable and filling, with most dishes feeling like the definition of comfort food.
For my meat eating mates, be sure to try Bosnia's national dish Ćevapi, (grilled minced meat sausages (pork, beef or both) served with flatbread, onions and sometimes sour cream/kajmac). If you're veggie - not to worry! You still have options - be sure to try börek/burek (Flaky pastry pies, filled with cheese, potato, spinach or a mix! If you're meaty, you can get meat versions too!) I think I had this like every single day for breakfast when travelling through the balkans and Istanbul! If you're vegan, I wont lie, your options are a little more limited! However you will be able to find lots of grilled veggie dishes, baked beans (not Heinz) and be sure to try Ajvar (essentially a red pepper spread you eat with bread - this is one of my go to picnic dishes!). No matter your diet, if you like coffee - be sure to try traditional Bosnian coffee too, it's like rocket fuel and often comes with homemade Turkish delight!
Below are some of our fave restaurants and bars, as well as a few options we didn't get to try, but are highly rated and generally affordable!
Restaurants
Sač - Arguably the best börek in Sarajevo! A tiny place serving fresh börek, normally they offer a meat and a veggie option - a great place for breakfast!
Dženita - There are two versions of this restaurant, however the allegedly better (and original) is the smaller version with the green sign. I don't think there is too much of a difference between the two though! Serves super tasty, traditional dishes!
Bosnian Cuisine Hadzibajric - We didn't go here, but I wish we had! A super small, no frills, local place serving traditional Bosnian dishes.
Pingvin - Sweet, sweet Pingvin. This place is literally just like a fast food joint serving paninis and chips - but it's so good. a solid place to grab a snack on the go!
Cevabdzinica Nune - Best rated restaurant on Tripadvisor. Serves (apparently) the best Ćevapi in the city! Also serves a variety of barbecued meats and Pljeskavica (essentially a balkan burger). High quality and low prices!
Falafel Restaurant - For my veggie/vegan pals! This place has loads of great options for veggies/vegans and is located in the heart of the old town!
Bars
Birtija - This tiny bar in the heart of the old town serves cheap drinks and looks proper cute and cosy. Be warned though, it can get super smokey inside! (This is often the case with many bars across the Balkans as smoking is allowed indoors).
Viking pub - A tiny viking themed(?) bar serving cheap drinks - what's not to love?
Brewery HS - Located in the Sarajevska brewery - this bar looks incredible and you can get all different types of Sarajevska beers!
Celtic Pub - There's always an Irish bar, but this one's a cheap Irish bar - win win!
Caffe pub Gondola - Locals pub serving cheap drinks
For a Coffee
Cafe Divan - One of the oldest establishments in Sarajevo. It's essentially a courtyard surrounded by a hotel and large cafe. It's super pretty and bustling and serves cheap and tasty Bosnian coffee (and the best Turkish delight I have ever eaten!)
Kamarija - A cafe located not too far from the Yellow bastion - a great place to stop if you're up this way! The views are great and the staff are lovely too!
Getting around
The City Centre
Sarajevo is a small city and just super easy to wander around on foot! Much of the old town is pedestrianised so really walking here will be your only option - but don't worry, you wont have to walk far between the bars, restaurants and attractions in the city centre!
From The Airport
There is an airport bus from/to the airport from the centre of town. The bus company is Centrotrans Eurolines, a return ticket costs 8BAM (£3.60), one way is 5BAM(£2.25) and the journey takes around 30 minutes. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver and the timetable can be found here.
Alternatively, there is a public trolleybus that runs from the airport to the city centre. The bus lines are 103 (runs every 5 minutes) and 31e (every 15 minutes). Both buses depart from Dobrinja - but this is around a 25 minute walk from the airport. Tickets are 1.80BAM (80p) if purchased from the driver.
If you don't fancy getting the bus, taxis are generally quite affordable. Taxis are available 24/7 at the official taxi rank, located next to Terminal B. You'll be able to spot the long line of silver taxis once you reach the exit! Taxis should cost around £9-£10.
From The Train Station
From the old town centre, the train station is around a 20-25 minute walk. However, if you'd prefer - you can take a tram. To get to Baščaršija (old town centre) take tram number 1 or number 4 in the direction of Ilidža. You can buy the ticket either from the driver for 1.80BAM (80p) or from the nearest newsstand for 1.60BAM (70p).
There is also a taxi stand outside the main train station entrance, a journey into the old town centre should cost you no more than 10-11BAM(£5).
From the Bus Station
Be sure to check your bus ticket! There are two bus stations in Sarajevo - The central bus station (where you'll get most international buses) and the east/Lukavica bus station (where you'll get most intercity lines as well as buses to Serbia).
The central bus station is, as the name suggests, located in the centre of town. Its next to the main train station so follow the instructions above to get there!
The East bus station is located next to the airport - so follow the same instructions above!
Currency and ATMs
Just the basics when it comes to money
Currency: Bosnian Mark (KM/BAM) approx 2.24KM≈£1, 2KM≈€1, 1.80KM≈1USD, 1.20KM≈1AUD.
Best ATMs: Ziraat bank is generally the best as it's the only ATM not to charge withdrawal fees. As always, avoid Euronet ATMs and Raiffeisen in the Balkans!
Cash Vs. Card: Some places like big supermarkets and some hostels will accept card - however for the most part, Bosnia is a cash dominant country - make sure to have enough with you!
Safety
I don't have any specific comments when it comes to safety in Sarajevo! We found the city to be incredibly safe and locals to be super friendly and helpful! It is still a city though, so always just have your wits about you when in busy areas!
Not from a safety aspect, rather a respect aspect - be sensitive when talking about/asking questions regarding the war. Lots of local people are happy to share stories and their experiences - but just be respectful with your questions and conversations. Remember, the war ended less than 30 years ago - Bosnia is still very much healing.
My Map
I've put all of my suggestions above onto this super handy, colour coded (stunning) Google map. Restaurants and bars I have highlighted are some of the cheapest places to eat and drink around the city. Remember to download the map if you don't have a sim card/data in Bosnia so you always have access!
TLDR - What are your top tips!
Baščaršija is the old town and 'centre' of the city - As long as you stay within walking distance of here then you're nearby all the main activities, bars and restaurants!
Do a walking tour - This is super important to get your bearings and learn more about the rich history of the city - believe me, it will help give a lot of context to this unique place! I highly recommend the Meet Bosnia tour, you can book online here (they do two tours everyday, one a 10:30am and one at 3pm).
Visit the 11/07/95 Gallery - This incredibly moving museum preserves the memory of the Srebrenica genocide victims through photographs and video. It's a super important visit if you're coming to Bosnia and does a great job of explaining what happened if you don't know already.
Go to the abandoned Bobsled track! - On the way up you'll get some amazing views of the city, and on the way down you can explore the super cool (maybe a little creepy?) remnants of the 1984 winter olympics. Its super unique and free to explore!
Try Bosnian coffee - My fave place to try this is Cafe Divan - the perfect spot to spend an afternoon people watching and taking in the bustling atmosphere. You genuinely feel like you've been transported back in time sitting here!
Tag on a trip to Mostar - The 2.5 hour train ride costs only 12BAM (£5.50) one way, and is one of the most beautiful train rides in Europe. Mostar itself is absolutely beautiful and I think worth staying for the night! But, if you're on a time crunch you can even do it on a day trip. There are two trains a day each way - the first train from Sarajevo to Mostar leaves at 7:15am and the last train back is at 16:38pm. You can buy tickets at the train stations.
Learn about the history - With an abundance of rich and recent history, there is a lot to learn about Sarajevo! From the assassination of Franz Ferdinand to the Bosnian war in the early-mid 90s. Learning about the fascinating history of this city made me appreciate it a whole lot more! Again, I would recommend a free walking tour - I would highly recommend the one run by a company called Neno and Friends, you can book online here.
Shop for some copper souvenirs - Within Baščaršija, you'll find one of the last remaining copper handicraft streets. Here you can pick up some affordable, beautiful souvenirs - and even watch them be made! I have a ring I bought for 10BAM (£4.50), that the guy even engraved for me! I get so many compliments on it and I LOVE it!
Try the local food - Ćevapi (minced meat sausages), börek (filo pastry pies stuffed with cheese, potato, spinach or meat), and ajvar (red pepper spread, best with nice bread!) are my faves, and you'll be able to try them in most restaurants! check out Dženita, Bosnian Cuisine Hadzibajric and sač to try!
Visit the brewery - Even if you're not a big drinker the brewery is still worth a visit! During the war, as water sources around the city became polluted, the freshwater springs beneath the brewery became one of the only available sources of clean water for the city. Today you'll find a museum in it's place aswell as a beautiful bar where you can sample all different types of Sarajevska beers!
Instant Noodle recommendation - Indo Mie
Flavour: Chicken
Rating (/5): 2.5
Comments: Honestly, I wouldn't really go out of your way to try these. They work for a lil snack (we pack them out with veggies too) but they aren't even a Bosnian staple. just pretty average, you can get them in ASDA at home. Average out of ten.
Awesome guide, love Sarajevo and definitely second the Sarajevska brewery, live music most nights and the setting is weirdly cool. Don't know if you missed Board Room, it's just off the old town and one of the only places in town you can get craft beer. One for the next visit :)