Belgrade
- aishacassiewilliam
- May 22, 2023
- 15 min read
Serbia was the first Balkan country I visited way back in 2016. My brother first visited a year or so before and fell head over heels for my now sister-in-law who is from Serbia herself. As they've spent a lot of time living in Belgrade, I've been fortunate enough to have my own personal tour guides and a free place to crash so I've spent my fair share of time in this absolute corker of a city.
When I first told my mates I was heading out to visit my brother and sister-in-law in Serbia I was often met with confused replies and questions including, 'where the hell is that? and 'why are you going to Siberia? isn't it cold there?'. Well, dear reader, Serbia is located in the Balkans, and despite getting pretty cold in the winter - I don't think it gets quite as cold as Siberia? (Who knows though, I've never been). The brutalist, ex-communist capital city of Belgrade may not be the most beautiful, but undoubtedly it is one of the coolest destinations in all of Europe. Expect quirky bars and restaurants, the most hospitable people you'll ever meet, great parks and places to chill as well as some proper bumping nightlife.
I don't claim to be any sort of expert, but I've probably felt the most confident writing this here post. With so many recommendations from my sister-in-law and her family who have spent a lot of time living in the city - I hope you'll find some ideas that you may not have come across before when researching a trip to Belgrade. This post will be my budget guide so this won't be all of my recommendations, just those that fit my backpacking standards! That being said, Serbia is a super affordable country to travel whether for a weekend break or part a wider European backpacking adventure - so even my less budget recommendations will be significantly more affordable than western European/US standards.
For the time being, here are my recommendations for visiting Belgrade on an instant noodle budget - but keep your peepers peeled for some more Belgrade recommendations in the future!
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Best Time To Go
Serbia experiences proper seasons - It gets super warm and sweaty in the summer, and cold and snowy in the winter.
My favourite time of year to visit is May - June. The weather is around the 25-28°C mark, nice and toasty warm - and spring is in full swing. The smell of flowers linger in the air all around Zemun and the sunsets best watched with wine and a picnic in Kalemagden are spectacular.
That being said - we have a family tradition of visiting Serbia over New Year’s Eve and onto orthodox Christmas (January 7th). Both are lovely times to visit - however if you’re coming in December, wrap up warm and expect to seek shelter in lots of (smokey) bars and restaurants!
Accommodation
I'll be honest, I've never stayed in a hostel/hotel in Belgrade. Every time I have visited I have either stayed with my brother and sister-in-law, or in an airbnb with the rest of my family. Still, I've stayed in my fair share of locations around the city at this point so feel I can make some recommendations based on reviews and location!
Generally it seems that most accommodation is located within the city centre. As long as you're within walking distance from Knez Mihailova Street/Kalemegdan fortress then you're in the city centre!
That being said, if you were looking for a little more of a relaxed area to stay, I'd recommend checking out Zemun. Its a short bus ride, or an hour long scenic walk to the city centre - but a lot more laid back and pretty than central Belgrade.
Despite not having experienced Belgrade's hostel options - I have gone ahead and put together the list below of what look like great hostel options around the city!
Note, all prices are midweek, for a single person in May 2023. All prices and ratings are from Hostelworld.com.
Name | Price per Night | Rating (/10) | Pros | Cons |
Habitat Hostel | £12 (6 bed mixed dorm) | 7.9 | Cheapest hostel in the city with a good rating. If you like dogs, this hostel has a big one! staff are lovely and location is great. | 4 bed dorm doesn't have windows, but does have A/C. Some reports on the hostel being a little run down and there not being enough bathrooms. |
Good People Design Hostel | £15 (12 bed mixed dorm) | 9.0 | Capsule style beds with curtains. Nice garden area and well equipped kitchen. Hostel is supposed to be clean and great location | Not the most social hostel apparently - probably a good place to stay if you're working! |
Balkan Soul Hostel | £16 (10 bed mixed dorm) | 9.2 | Highest rated hostel with loads of reviews. Super social hostel in a great location. Staff are super friendly and helpful. Offers group activities, free rakija and bar crawls. | One of the more expensive hostels in the city and can get a little loud sometimes. |
Hostel Inn Downtown | £13 (6 bed mixed dorm) | 9.0 | Has a rooftop terrace with greta city views. located near the bus station so convenient if travelling in/out by bus. Has a small kitchen. | Located on the 6th floor with no elevator so may pose issues here. not huge amounts of reviews also. |
White Owl Hostel | £13 (10 bed mixed dorm) | 9.4 | Nice location, cosy common room and spacious, well equipped kitchen. Hostel has a garden and a BBQ in the summertime. Looks nice and cosy and is apparently very social! | Not huge numbers of reviews despite being super highly rated. |
Things To Do
Okay, I'll be the first to admit - there aren't masses of things to do in Belgrade. I just really love the city for wandering, trying great restaurants and bars and taking in the Serbian culture. That being said, there are still lots of things both within and around the city worth seeing and doing, plus with it being a Balkan country, most activities are either free or affordable - I've listed my favourites below!
Free walking tours - If you've read any of my other posts, this one probably doesn't come as too much of a surprise! Funnily enough I have never done a walking tour as I'm lucky to have my family as our own personal tour guides! That being said, there are a few available on Guruwalks.com which are highly rated and I would still recommend! The city is super interesting and well worth learning about - there are a lot of hidden things you would probably miss if you didn't have a guide too, so I think a tour is well worthwhile! Tours are free, but remember to bring some cash to tip your guide at the end!
Kalemedgan - This huge fortress and park is located slap bang in the centre of the city and is the most visited attraction in Belgrade. That being said the area is massive so it never feels particularly busy! There are bars, restaurants and museums found within the fortress complex - however, the area is also lovely for a stroll and a great spot for a sunset picnic and a bottle of wine! Entry to the main area/park is completely free too!
Nikola Tesla Museum - This little museum displays the personal items and teaches visitors of Serbia's poster child and inventor of the AC electricity supply system - Nikola Tesla. It's quite a nice little afternoon out if that's the kind of thing that interests you! Tickets are only 800RSD (£6) for a guided tour and is open Monday from 10:00am - 18:00pm, and Tuesday - Sunday 10:00am - 20:00pm.
Wander Skadarlija - This little old cobbled street is one of the most famous in Belgrade. It is the main bohemian quarter of the city and is absolutely beautiful to just wander around. It's lined with lots of traditional bars and restaurants and you'll most likely hear live music from one of the many traditional bands that play in the area.
Saint Sava Temple - This is one of the largest churches in the world, and the largest Orthodox church in all of Serbia. It's super beautiful, absolutely enormous, and entrance is free!
Ada Ciganlija - Perfect for the summer and probably the closest you're gonna get to a beach in landlocked Serbia! Affectionately called 'fun island' by my family, this park/island sits in the Sava river and is the perfect spot for picnicking, renting bikes and skateboards and just chilling out. Theres a large lake in the middle which you can take a dip - or if you'd prefer to sit by the water drinking a cocktail there's plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from. Better still, fetch a few beers with you or buy some from the little stalls you'll find around the island.
Hop on the train and visit Novi Sad - You may well have heard of Novi sad as it is home to Exit Festival - voted multiple times as Europe's best festivals. However, even if you're not in town for Exit, the city itself is really beautiful and just a short half an hour train ride from Belgrade Centar train station. In the summer, this pretty (more typically European) city is just a lush place to escape the chaos of Belgrade and sip some cocktails our in the sunshine.
Places to Eat/Drink
Serbian food incorporates all of your favourite Balkan staples (think borek, cevapi, ajvar) but adds quite a few of it's own twists and unique offerings! There are a few national dishes I would highly recommend trying! Sarma is a personal fave, it's essentially spiced ground pork and rice wrapped in cabbage leaves - it even sounds balkan doesn't it? Another is pljeskavica, it doesn't do it justice, but think Serbian beef burger - but I promise, it is so much more than that!
A lot of Serbian cuisine is very meat heavy - however there are still quite a few traditional options for all my herbivorous pals! Ajvar is again very much an option here (as is the case in lots of Balkan countries - you can read my Sarajevo guide here!). However, keep your eyes out for Srpska salata (okay, I know what you're thinking, a SALAD? but honestly its just delish!), Punjene Paprike (This is similar to sarma, but instead of cabbage it's stuffed peppers. Normally this does have a meat filling, but I have seen veggie/vegan versions!) and Prebranac (baked bean stew, its smokey and warming and served with delicious crusty bread. Make sure to check with the restaurant though as they sometimes add in bacon!).
Below are some of our fave restaurants and bars, as well as a few options we didn't get to try, but are highly rated and generally affordable!
Restaurants
Questionmark - This traditional Kafana serves loads of traditional Serbian/Balkan dishes. Its super authentic and you may be able to catch some traditional live music. Its not the cheapest place to eat in the city but does have a super authentic feel to it. In the summer, they open up their garden area too, which is such a nice place to enjoy your meal!
Loki/Loki 2 - This is my brother's holy land and home to what he deems the best Pljeskavica (essentially a Serbian burger) in the city. It's drunk food - but real good drunk food. They have two locations and is generally more of a takeaway vibe.
Pizzeria Trg - Located on the corner of republic square - this tiny place with only outdoor seating serves pizzas (by the slice/full pizzas) for great prices. My fave dish they serve however is Palačinke, its pretty much just a savoury or sweet crepe - but they're super cheap and the best snack.
Amigo - Speaking of Palačinke, this place is located in the student area and makes unreal pancakes that are silly cheap - also the staff are so lush! A takeaway kind of place.
Burrito Madre - Okay, okay so maybe its a bit bad that I'm recommending a burrito joint on a Serbian travel guide, but man I love Burrito Madre. Think of it like a Subway - but just burritos yum yum!! Its just a chain restaurant but great for a lunch to take away or eat in. The portions are also massive!!!
Павле Корчагин (Kafana Pavle Korcagin) - I haven't been here but I will on my next visit! looks like just a cosy little place serving super cheap traditional food and apparently has a few vegan/veggie options.
Marina Sveti Nikola - Another place I haven't visited but looks so nice! A boat restaurant in Zemun that looks super chilled out and serves great food.
Bars
Samo Pivo - If you're into craft beer - welcome home! This bar may take a little bit of hunting down - but if you're confused, go into the subway under the road and you'll find it! Note, this bar only takes cash and doesn't really serve anything other than beer and a few soft drinks! It has a great sunny outdoor space though, perfect in the summer!
Kafe Bar Blaznacac - This bar is so quirky with the coolest theming! Words don't do it justice, just go check it out yourself! The cocktails here are super tasty and affordable - and most come in 1 litre versions if you're thirsty! They often have DJs in the basement if you fancy a boogy too!
Gardoš Pub - There are so many lovely bars in Zemun, but this is one of my personal faves! This tiny bar boasts gorgeous views over Zemun and Belgrade and has one of my favourite beer gardens, which is utterly glorious when the sun is shining!
Dogma Brewery and Taproom - Try Serbia's most famous craft beer! The brewery and taproom is a short walk from ada Ciganlija and the perfect pitstop after a day cycling, swimming or just soaking up the sun. The outdoor space is gorgeous and gets beautifully lit at night! Again, expect to find mainly beers, however they have started distilling their own gin and the food here is awesome! Not traditional serb grub, but so tasty!
World Travellers Club Belgrade - This bar is a super hidden gem! Honestly, if my brother and sister-in-law hadn't found it, I don't know how we would have! It's located in the basement of an apartment block (I think!), just go through the main door and down the stairs! This quirky place serves everything from cocktails to rakija and the decor is super eclectic, it feels like you're sitting in your grandparent's living room!
Caffe Bar Ruina - Okay, this one is a little out of the way, but if you find yourself in this area, pop in! They have a lovely garden area and are actually more of a cafe - however, they serve blue frogs for around £2.50? Don't blame me if you end up in a bit of a pickle if you have more than 1! (if you're confused what a blue frog is - see my photo at the top!)
Zappa Barka - One of the most famous aspects of Belgrade's nightlife scene is the floating bars/clubs! I went to one years ago to see a band, but I think that one has now closed down! That being said, there are still quite a few left - Zappa Barka included. I haven't been but it looks super cool! Plus, you'll find all the other floating bars in this area too!
Supermarkets
Maxi - These supermarkets are dotted around the city and stock all your essentials! They also have a hot food counter and serve a variety of quick, traditional dishes - its not the best, but it's super cheap and a great option if you're on the go!
Shop and Go - More convenience style shops that stock less stuff but are handy if you need to pop somewhere to grab a packet of crisps or a road beer.
Getting Around
The City Centre
The main centre of Belgrade is fairly small and easy enough to wander around on foot! That being said, if you are in need of some public transport, there is a fairly extensive bus network that serves the city. You can purchase passes that last from 90 minutes (89RSD/66p) up to 5 days (1000RSD/£7.40) - You can get purchase these from various ticket kiosks around the city.
From The Airport
There is an airport bus from/to the airport from the centre of town. The A1 line is the easiest, and quickest option. This minibus takes you directly to the town centre (Slavija Square) in around 30 minutes, it also stops in Zemun if you're staying there! You can purchase tickets from the driver for 400RSD(£2.96), and the times can be found here. Allegedly the bus runs every 25 minutes between 6:30am-7:30pm everyday, however, public transport in the Balkans can be a little unreliable. Make sure to give yourself plenty of time!
Alternatively, you can get a taxi from the airport, however these are on the pricier side and rife with scammers! The easiest way to manoeuvre the taxis is to collect a voucher as you leave the airport. You'll see an official taxi stand, once you've told these guys where you're going they'll give you a voucher with a fixed price that you need to show the driver at the taxi rank. However, you need to check with the driver that they will charge you that fare. Many taxis will say no and ask for more money - do not get in! Approach the next driver until you find one who will stick to the voucher price - it may take a few tries but you'll find one! Just make sure you agree on the set price before you get in! Taxis to the centre of town will roughly set you back around 3000RSD (£22.50).
There are some taxi firms around known to be more reliable than others. Pink taxis (image on the left) or Naxis taxis are generally your safest options. Avoid the company pictured on the right. They are known scammers and will rip you off: They generally have white taxi signs with a number and a Serbian flag on top of the car.
From The Train Station
Okay, so I haven't used the train networks much in the Balkans, frankly because they are majorly unreliable! However, there is still a train station here where you can travel both nationally and internationally. The main train station in Belgrade is called Belgrade Centar (or Prokop station) - It's located a few miles south of the main city centre. Note, the original train station (located by the bus station) is no longer operational. When you search up the train station in belgrade on google maps, the old one is now labelled as 'permanently closed' so it shouldn't be too confusing!
Your cheapest option to the centre of Belgrade to/from the train station is by getting the bus. Line 36 runs a circular route linking Belgrade Centar train station and the old town centre. Tickets cost around 150din (£1.10) and the buses run every 20 minutes or so!
Alternatively a taxi from the centre of town to the train station should cost around 650DIN(£4.50) - but just be weary of the taxi company you use!
From the Bus station
The central bus station of Belgrade is located in the centre of the city and is super easy to get to. You'll find all international and inter-city lines here. I have several major gripes with Balkan bus stations though, and Belgrade is one of the worst culprits!
Firstly, nearly all main Balkan bus stations charge a 'bus station/platform fee' - (what on earth is that about?). Essentially you need to pay to enter the bus station, the fee is around 190din (£1.40) - this can only be paid only in cash and only in Dinar! You must purchase this ticket from counter number 12 before you proceed to board your bus - there will be someone checking you have purchased the platform ticket at the bus platform exit (before you board your bus). Make sure you leave yourself enough time to pay this fee and find your bus when travelling from this station!
Another catch is that for some reason they always charge you to put a bag on the bus? The price depends on the company and is normally around €1 per bag. Again, this can only be paid in cash so make sure you have some change with you!
My final gripe is the toilets! Not only are they grim, but they are all squat style toilets, and they don't even provide toilet roll and soap! The best part? they charge you around 50din(40p) for the pleasure!
Despite my gripes, buses are generally the cheapest and best way to get in/out of Belgrade and the station is very conveniently located. You can easily walk to the centre of town from the bus station, or alternatively a taxi ride should only set you back a couple of quid (I cant find the exact prices sorry!). Just remember to have a few hundred dinar on you so you're prepared for the random charges that spring up left right and centre!
Currency and ATMs
Just the basics when it comes to money
Currency: Serbian Dinar (RSD)approx 130din≈£1, 120din≈€1, 105din≈1USD, 70din≈1AUD.
Best ATMs: Be careful with ATMs in Serbia - Generally your best bet is to withdraw from ATMs attached to banks. UniCredit and NLB Banka are the best and don't charge withdrawal fees. Avoid using Raiffeisen and Euronet ATMs as these are the most expensive.
Cash Vs. Card: A lot of shops, bars and restaurants will accept card - but not all! Be sure to have some cash with you most of the time.
Safety
Whenever I've visited Belgrade I've never felt unsafe - the people are friendly, streets are normally busy and well lit - Just exercise usual caution when walking around a busy city! Also be aware of taxi scams, there's more on this above!
Something I think is worth mentioning, mainly to dispel any misconceptions people may have, is to mention the Serbian stance on the Russian invasion of Ukraine. You will likely see pro-war/Russia graffiti around the city - which is, of course, incredibly upsetting and frustrating to see. However, it's worth bearing in mind this is not the view held by the majority of Serbian people, rather the vocal minority. Most Serbians absolutely oppose the war and fully support Ukraine - don't let the ignorant minority stop you from visiting this wonderful country.
Again, not really safety but still - don't go to the zoo, its miserable (I've never been but you can hear the animals when you're wandering around Kalemegden - big sad).
My Map
I've put all of my suggestions above onto this super handy, colour coded (stunning) Google map. Restaurants and bars I have highlighted appear when using the single £ sign filter - hence are some of the cheapest places to eat and drink around the city. most of which I can personally recommend, however there are some which are just highly rated and cheap! Remember to download the map if you don't have a sim card/data in Serbia so you always have access!
TLDR - What are your top tips?
Be aware of Taxi scams! See the photo above for the taxis best to avoid and the best taxis to use!
For your best traditional food options - visit Skadarlija. This street not only is great for photographs, but is also great for finding some traditional eats!
Catch a sunset from kalemegdan - The parks around Kalemegdan fortress are free to enter and the perfect place to catch a sunset over the city! Bring a picnic and a bottle of wine if you fancy!
Always carry cash! Though most places accept card, there are some exceptions! One of the biggest being the bus station. I'd recommend reading the 'getting around' section if you are planning on travelling by bus! But essentially expect to pay a platform fee, a fee to use the toilet and a fee to the bus driver to get your bags on the bus! just make sure you have cash with you to pay for this because they don't accept card!
Visit Zemun - Especially in the summer! Though technically a separate town to Belgrade - it's just a short journey (or hour long walk along the river) away. This area is one of my favourites in Belgrade - expect boat bars, cosy restaurants, and all round relaxing vibes.
If you like craft beer visit Samo Pivo and Dogma brewery! I'm not a beer gal but the selection in these bars are huge, Belgrade is truly a craft beer lovers paradise.
For a chill and some nature, visit Ada Ciganlija - Perfect for if the city is getting a bit much for you! This gorgeous park has loads of picnic spots, bike and skateboard rentals, little bars and restaurants and even a lake where you can swim on those hot summer days!
Try Pljeskavica - aka a Serbian burger. Bonus points if you get one from Loki.
If you're travelling overland - get the bus! Not everyone's cup of tea but its a whole lot easier than relying on the trains (which are virtually non-existent, unless you're going to Novi Sad!)
If you're wanting a night out - hit the boat bars! You'll find Belgrade's famous nightclub boats/floating clubs if you search Zappa Barka on google maps. However if you prefer less of a clubby night out, I love Blaznavac, which is in the centre of town.
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